The axe handle goes through a loop just behind the step. The shovel point goes in a bracket above the the point where the front fender and the step meet.
Installation instructions, according to the TM 9-803 manual where this drawing is found, are the following: “Turn bit, or blade, of ax up. Insert handle in front clamp. Insert blade in sheath. Pull up clamp under ax head, and strap in place. Turn face of shovel against cowl and place in strap on cowl side. Wrap fabric strap, through handle, over grip, between grip and side of body, through loop ,over outside of grip, and buckle. NOTE: This will hold the shovel forward in the strap on the cowl side.“
There are various degrees of restoration:
The top of the line would be National Judging. These are strictly show jeeps. Most customers are not interested due to cost and that they are not good driving jeeps.
Second would be Motor Pool. In other words motor pool ready as a soldier would pick up to go on a mission. Complete running, reliable, etc.
Third would be Combat Class. This would be a motor pool vehicle but have combat type gear added to it; guns, packs, etc. Also may show “damage” from combat use- bent bumper or fender, scratched up paint, etc.
Then there are projects – jeeps not ready to run at all, needing work or complete restoration.
The XL conversion kit was designed to provide more leg and belly room behind the steering wheel. It consists of a modified drivers seat frame and two wheelhouse pockets. You must cut your rear wheelhouse and weld the pocket into it. This give the driver an additional 3″ of space behind the wheel. A pocket is provided for your unmodified passenger seat so the seat frames line up.
Due to the fact that the gas filler is under the seat cushion on the WWII jeep, the MB XL seat frame is designed in such a way that the bottom of the frame stays in the original position. A pocket must be installed in the rear wheelhouse and the legs of the frame are lengthened so the seatsits back into that pocket.
Since this is not a problem for “newer” models due to them having side-fill gas tanks, if you wanted the same effect, you could weld pockets into the rear wheel wells and, rather than using the XL seat frame, modify your current seat by cutting the front leg tubes and sliding the seat back into the wheelhouse and then welding in a spacer.
The cost of rebuilding a T-84 transmission varies depending on the condition of your core. Normal rebuild of a T84 transmission involves replacing the following parts:
The countershaft, small parts kit, synchronizer and/or it’s blocking rings depending on their condition, reverse idler shaft, gasket set, rear bearing, and front bearing. The counter gear often has to have new bushings put in it at the machine shop. Disassembly and cleaning takes about 3 hours labor as does reassembling.
If case or gears are found to be damaged, price can quickly escalate. We have received some cases in which the front bearing no longer fit, in this case the machine shop has to bore out the case and install a ring and bore it to the correct size of the bearing. All these procedures are rather costly.
When calling or emailing us for a price estimate, please answer these questions – Do you know what condition your transmission is in now? Is it running? Has it been sitting for years? If it has been sitting for many years, remove the top cover and rotate the gears. As you know, oil floats on top of water. We have received transmissions in the past where the gear teeth were rusted almost off in the bottom where the case had water in it for 20 years or more.
This dent is the only way you can remove the inner windshield frame from the outer frame. If replacement or repair of the inner frame is required, you open the inner frame fully and slide it toward the driver’s side out of it’s hinge channel. I have had customers in the past who actually welded this area in, thinking it was not correct.
Yes, we have CJ2A frames, however, the steering bell crank bracket must be cut from your old frame and welded onto the new one.
Steel thickness of reproduction bodies is as close to original as possible. Much of the steel overseas is sold in MM thickness, not gauge thickness. You will not find the bodies to be thin. They are very close to original in weight.
The MB-2A kit is designed for the customer who wishes to have the MB/GPW WWII jeep-look but can not find an original MB or GPW to restore. Many customers find CJ2A and CJ3A jeeps to be cheaper and request a WWII looking body to fit. We thus developed the MB-2A body kit. It is basically an MB kit, including all the WWII features – i.e. low windshield frame, tool boxes, shovel and axe location, no tailgate and small head lights. The major difference is that the front floor is modified to accept the T-90 transmission. All accessories – seat frames, gas tank, headlight buckets, must be MB type to fit.
Some modifications must be done to the CJ2A frame before mounting this kit. Since the MB gas tank hangs down over the frame, the two out board frame to body mounts under the gas tank need to be removed. They can be relocated to the inside of the frame.
Rear shock brackets on CJs lean front, on MB they are straight up and down. The body will have the pockets in rear floor so you can relocate the brackets. You will also need to switch the left and right hand leaf spring shock mount plates to position the shock to rear of axle. If you do not wish to do this, the bracket can be left in CJ2A position and it will clear the MB-2A body tub.
The 12 volt CJ3As have a larger battery tray. This interferes with the MB inner fender, requiring modification or use of CJ3A or M38 front fenders. In addition, CJ3As do not have front bumper gussets. If you wish, they can be added with some cutting and welding, although this is not required.
This kit is ideal for a parade or living history group restoration as the CJ2A and 3A jeeps are easier to find and are usually less expensive to buy. Also the T-90 transmission is better than the WWII T-84 transmission.
The original jeeps in crates were complete running vehicles that were then partially disassembled (to reduce the size) and crated. If that is your goal, I would just buy our master kit, assemble the jeep and then build a crate in a similar manner as was originally done. The reason is MD Juan’s jeep in a crate is made with a solid wood crate that imitates the original crates used during WWII. You are paying quite a bit for this crate. In addition, any solid wood products imported into the USA must be fumigated for possible insect infestation. Last I heard it cost about $600 for the fumigation service. Our master kit comes with most of the parts needed to build the jeep and is shipped in a crate that is a combination steel frame work and plywood and therefore does not need to be fumigated. If you want to build the vehicle into a running jeep, what you want to order is our master kit, rather than a jeep in a crate. So, if your plan is to remove the body from this crate and build it into a jeep, the extra expense for the wood crate is basically wasted. The only reason you would want to order a jeep in a crate is If your goal is to display a jeep body alone in a crate (no engine, axles, etc.). If your goal is to reproduce a jeep in the crate as originally shipped, you would have to build it with the engine, axles, wheels and tires, etc. Note that the MD Juan jeep in a crate does not come with any of the running gear (engine, axles, steering or running gear). It is basically one of our master kits assembled and crated. To date we haven’t had any customers who, after hearing this explanation, really want the jeep in a crate.
These 24 volt coils have been a problem for a few years now. At present, we know of no supplier or manufacturer that makes anything better to replace this one. One thing to be sure of is that you have your ventilation/fording system completely in tact because without the fresh air coming through the fording system the coil will overheat. We also have had customers who recommend adding a ceramic voltage reducer as was used on most of the 1960’s cars to help the coils last longer. Currently that’s the only thing we can offer to help.
These engines were originally manufactured with a rope seal. The rope seal has the advantages of being much wider than the rubber seal, they conform to irregularities in the casting of the block, and they absorb oil. If you want a leak-free rear main seal, we recommend using the rope. The only disadvantage to the rope seal is that you must have the crank shaft out of the engine to install it.